Palazzo della Civilta Italiana

By Blackcat - I took this photograph with a Kodak EasyShare camera; it has been published also on it.wiki and is also available on my account on Flickr, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37251921

The Square Colosseum, as it is often called, remains the landmark display of fascist architecture. While technically completed in 1940 for Rome's hosting of the World Fair, the building only served any public purpose from 1953 onward, due to the World War. The entire thing is surrounded with travertine marble, the base level hosting many classically-style statues, and the entire building as a whole being a modern homage to Roman tradition. Around the building are equestrian statues of Greek and Roman heroes straight out of mythology. The building remains in commercial usage to this day, apparently by Fendi. However, the ground floor has been converted to an exhibit about the building's history.

My attraction to this may site may seem strange or even off-putting. However, I'm of the opinion that the whole history of Rome must be viewed to gain a truly full experience. That includes fascist Rome, warts and all. Furthermore, the building isn't terribly unappealing, and perhaps more importantly it helps one get into the mind of fascist beliefs, primarily the aspiration of Mussolini to Ancient Rome. I believe that one should try to understand all political philosophies, even terrible ones that have horrible things, because only thourgh understanding the ideas and how they were arrived at can one  then truly avoid the thinking that leads to those terrible ideas.

The Fountain of Moses

By Jastrow - Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1290908

The Fountain of Moses is one of the more obscure contributions by Sixtus V. The fountain is actually the end of the aqueduct that Sixtus V rebuilt in 1586, this aqueduct being called the Acqua Felice after Sixtus V's birth name. Here Roman locals could draw water to drink or do laundry or whatever else they needed it for. The most obvious features are the statue of Moses and the large attic (more on that later). All the imagery is also completely biblical, and displayed none of the borrowed pagan figure and imagery that was becoming popular in religious art.

I'm attracted to this site for two reasons. One, its combines beauty and practicality, like many sites on this blog. Two, people didn't like it. They thought it was mediocre, owing primarily to its over-sized attic that holds an overly large inscription. It's helpful to remind ourselves that not every project in Rome was successful, or even particularly noteworthy in its art or design.

St. Peter's Basilica

By I, Dfmalan, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2435011

St.Peter's Basilica is simply far too large to adequately describe. So many artists, from Michelangelo to Bernini to countless others, have contributed to the designing, building, and decoration of this gargantuan feature that this blog post can not do them justice in any reasonable amount of time. Needless to say, the Basilica itself is the domed structure seen there, with many halls and chapels assorted around it. St. Peter's square is the huge open space visible in the picture, currently with a large road placed by Mussolini leading straight into it adjacent the basilica. It is said that one should try to approach the square from the crowded surroundings, so that the juxtaposition of the open space with city streets can impose itself on the viewer. The Sistine chapel, the tomb of Pope Alexander VII, and countless other works by Bernini and Michelangelo are all contained within the church or near it. 

The amazing command of space and architecture alone makes visiting this site a must. However, St.Peter's is a package deal, containing the art superstar in the form of Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel frescoes. Other notable experiences include viewing the Throne of St.Peter or Tomb of Alexander VII by Bernini, or even climbing to the top of the beautiful dome. Just go visit it, you simply miss too much by not doing so.  

San Luigi Dei Francesi

By Maros M r a z (Maros) - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5074206

San Luigi Dei Francesi was commissioned by Pope Clement VII when he was still just a cardinal. The church was dedicated to Louis IX of France, the patron saint of France. The church itself is most notable for its richly decorated interior that includes many paintings, most notably by Domenichino and Caravaggio. Both artists's paintings document the life of a Saint, St. Cecilia for Domenichino, and St.Matthew for Caravaggio. 

The appeal of this site is obvious. The art of Caravaggio is some of the best in the Western tradition, and his Calling of St.Metthew one of the most famous in his own portfolio and that tradition. His art displayed master of chiaroscuro, the use of light and shadow for depth and dramatic effect. All three paintings exemplify this technique, while also showing a wonderful mastery of human form and realistic proportions. Anyone visiting Rome should take the chance to view these landmark art pieces.  

Castel Sant'Angelo

By Livioandronico2013 - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=37316339

The Castel Sant'Angelo was first created by Hadrian to serve as a mausoleum for him and his family. Later on in the Empire, the mausoleum was made part of the Aurelian walls, and converted into a military fortress. Towards the end of the Western Empire, the fortress was overrun in one of the many sacks of Rome, and most of the ashes of those buried within (including many emperors), as well as adornments, were scattered or stolen. The top half of a funerary jar that was said to hold Hadrian's ashes still exists, but has been moved to the Vatican. Speaking of which, the Papacy saw fit to convert the mausoleum into a full fledged castle with its own outer walls and courtyard. This makes it unique not only amongst tombs for serving a defensive purpose, but also amongst castles of the European tradition, as the keep of this one was composed of a circular rather than rectangular structure.

I love castles to death. In addition to being quite inspiring to look at, they are a monument to human stubbornness and refusal to die or surrender even in dire situations. Admittedly, I'm also quite attracted to the idea of having such a bastion to myself, these structures being the ultimate expressions of power, wealth, security, and nobility for much of post-Roman European history.  Additionally, many of them are completely and hilariously overdone, some Catalan specimens having walls thicker than classrooms. While this castle doesn't have any immediately ridiculous proportions, its unqique history and design make it a must-see for my visit to Rome, and for anyone who loves castles as much as I do.

The Pantheon

By Jakob Alt - repro from artbook, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10206191

The Pantheon is a massive temple first commissioned by Agrippa, Augustus's right-hand man. The current building was completed by Hadrian, after the previous had burnt down. The building is composed a dome (the Cella) with a columned facade (called the Portico still containing the original inscription) practically bolted onto the front. Interestingly, the coffered dome is not actually closed, sunlight streaming in through the aperture where the dome's apex should be, allowing sunlight (and rain) to stream onto the floor. The columns within are all carved from single pieces of marble, some of yellow marble, some of white, and some with marble with purple veins. Raphael's tomb was placed within at that artists behest. Niches all along the back of the interior held statues, either to the Olympian gods or to chief figures of state such as  Hadrian himself, or both of these at different times.

When a site has such an enormous reputation and pedigree as does the Pantheon, anyone with the chance ought to take out the time to see it. Rarely do places such as these occupy such an abnormally large part of popular culture and tourism without having something worthwhile to be gained from visiting them. If you're not impressed, at least you'll be able to say you know what everyone is talking about, finally. 

Trajan's Column

By Alvesgaspar - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=43808385

The Column of Trajan stand roughly 35 meters from ground to zenith. It was completed in 113 BC and contained 23 windings along its main length, depicting the Roman-Dacian War, which Trajan fought and won. The top is crowned with a statuette installed by Sixtus V, but probably originally had either an eagle or an image of Trajan. The friezes along the column's length depict not only the battles and victories in Dacia (modern day Romania, the Romanian language still being classified as a Romance language despite being surround on all sides by isolate or Slavic languages) but also the great logistical efforts that went into moving and supplying an army fielded so distant from the heart of the empire.

The last point there is most of my interest in this specific site. Too often, the focus of history is on great battles and military tactics, often leaving out the immense administrative challenges that had to be overcome. The column as a whole represents a culmination of art, storytelling, and history that should be far too tantalizing for anyone, including myself, pass up.